Updates
Kendal Mountain Film Festival - Much to our surprise the short video that was made of the teams attempt on Phari Lapcha has made it into the 2009 Kendal Film Festival. The film was well received and it was great for Andy Turner to introduce the film and then kick back and enjoy the rest of the festival.
Detailed account of Expedition -James Thacker has created a great report of the expedition with good detailed information in the hope that others can use the information when visiting the region. Click HERE to download it or see the bottom of the page.
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Expedition Outline
Phari Lapcha
Located in the Gokyo valley region of Khumbu, Nepal. Phari Lapcha rises to a height of 6017m. It is here that James Thacker and Andrew Turner hope to attempt the first alpine style ascent of a possible new line on the North Face of Phari Lapcha as well as similar new lines on Phari Lapcha West face (5977m.)
The Expedition took place throughout November of 2008.
The expedition was also been lucky enough to be awarded various grants that helped to fund the trip (see the Links and Sponsors tabs.)
This website was set up to track the expedition and offer an insight into the day to day needs and running of a small expedition.
Thanks to Chris Walker for the picture used here.
Expedition Summary
Phari Lapcha (6017m) lies in the popular Gokyo valley in Nepal, close to village of Gokyo and the source of the Dubh Kosi. Despite being a popular trekking area Phari Lapcha has only recently become a popular venue after being added to the permitted trekking peak list in 2002.
We were seeking an ice/mixed objective in the Himalayas that would be a good introduction to climbing alpine style in the Greater Ranges. Phari Lapcha seemed to fit the bill, having good access and being of a scale we were familiar with climbing in the European Alps. The team was small – Andy Turner and James Thacker; and we had climbed together frequently over the proceeding years. The ability to put up with each others varied foibles was (perhaps) essential. Despite failing on our primary objective, we had a successful trip making an *ascent of ‘Snotty’s Gully’ on the nearby Dawa Peak otherwise known as Phari Lapcha West.
*Note: This is probably the third ascent (2nd British) as far as we are aware. The route being climbed by Norwegians Halvor Dannevig and Nils Nielsen last autumn.
For a more detailed account please check the teams Diary page.
Expedition Members
Although usually based around the Derbyshire Peak District, James also climbs frequently in all major mountain areas of the UK. More recently this enthusiasm for climbing and mountaineering has taken James to arctic Greenland, the European Alps, the Hebrides and Outer Isles. James holds the Mountain Instructor Certificate (MIC), and as such, is qualified to instruct mountaineering including all aspects of rock climbing, winter mountaineering, snow, ice, mixed climbing and associated activities. In addition, James is also an accredited course director/provider for the Mountain Leader (ML) and Climbing Wall Award (CWA) schemes.
Originally from Stockport, Andy has had a long and traditional mountaineering apprenticeship which has taken him from the craglets of Windgather to the massive granite big walls of Patagonia and Yosemite. He is in a small select club of climbers who have topped out on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, one of the worlds more difficult summits and has tried the massive and imposing North Face of Machermo in the Nepalese Himalaya. Andrew holds the Mountain Instructor Certificate (MIC) allowing him to instruct in the sport he loves.
| British Phari Lapcha 2008 Report |
