WebSite Entries
These are entries made on the website by the web team
Saturday 1st November
The small 2 man team left for Kathmandu on Saturday the 1st of November. Once they obtain the appropriate permits they'll then head on to Lukla where thay can then move on to establish camp before attempting the new lines they have in mind.
Wednesday 5th November
We think that the team has arrived in Lukla but with limited access to in the internet we may have to wait some time before hearing from them again.
Looking at the weather reports for the region the conditions are not looking favourable but we will have to wait and see.
Friday 14th November
Still no word from Andrew or James but if they are on track for a new route they should in the middle of their attempt now.
Thursday 20th November
With limited time of their climbing left we hope that the team are fairing well in Nepal.
Monday 1st December
While disappointed for Andrew and James bad luck with the conditions on their desired line we'd like to congratulate them on their repeat of "Snotty's Gully" and wish them all the best on their next expedition.
Expedition Team
Limited entries from Andrew and James while in Nepal
Monday 3rd November
Andy and I arrived in Kathmandu on Sunday the 2nd and have spent a day or so organising visas and our climbing permits ready to visit Phari Lapcha. We are now waiting to get the go ahead to fly out of Kathmandu to Lukla.
Unfortunately, we spend six hours in the airport yesterday grounded due to the weather. Fingers crossed we might be able to get out today.
Monday 17th November
Below is a video blog of us sat in our bivvy half way up Snotty Gully.
| videoblog_snottysgully.wmv |
Monday 24th November
Sadly, our attempt of a new line on Phari Lapcha was repelled by difficult mixed ground, compact granite and unconsolidated snow at approximately half height. We were forced to switch objectives opting to repeat the Bracey-Bullock line "Snotty's Gully". This ca 1000m ice gully lies just to the right of our intended line on the subsidary peak Phari Lapcha West (5977m).
Leaving Gokyo at 5am on the 17th November we climbed to approximately two thirds height with difficulties upto WI5 and M5+. After an open bivvy, the final water ice pitches led to a descent to the Upper Machermo Glacier and the relative comfort of Machermo village on the evening of the 18th.
We would like to congratulate Jon Bracey and Nick Bullock on what we consider to be an excellent line which may well become a Khumbu classic. Good effort.
"Snotty's Gully" ED1 WI5 M5+ c1000m Phari Lapcha West (Dawa Peak) 5977m
