For a more detailed account of the Expedition please download the Expedition report by clicking HERE.  

Day by day

A basic day to day summary of the expedition:

 1 Nov    Flight – Depart London Heathrow.
 2 Nov    Arrive Kathmandu via Doha.
 3 Nov    Kathmandu, supplies and permits etc
 4 Nov    Delayed in KTM, no flights to Lukla.
 5 Nov    Delayed in KTM, no flights to Lukla
 6 Nov    Fly to Lukla, walk to Phakding.
 7 Nov    Phakding to Namche Bazar
 8 Nov    Namche Bazar local acclimatisation day
 9 Nov    Namche Bazar to Dole
 10 Nov  Dole to Gokyo
 11 Nov  Acclimatisation and check out lines on the north face of Phari Lapcha.
 12 Nov  Ascent of Gokyo Ri (5483m) and bivvy for acclimatisation
 13 Nov  Descend Gokyo Ri (5483m), pack kit for Phari Lapcha
 14 Nov  Attempt line of LHS of the north face of Phari Lapcha – retreat to Gokyo.
              (Tent noted at the base of the face from another unknown team).
 15 Nov  Rest day
 16 Nov  Recce/Rest Day
 17 Nov  Start “Snotty’s Gully” on Dawa Peak (Bivvy)
 18 Nov  “Snotty’s Gully” and descent to Machermo
 19 Nov  Rest day Machermo
 20 Nov  Machermo to Gokyo and return (pick up stashed bags)
 21 Nov  Machermo to Namche Bazar
 22 Nov  Namche Bazar to Lukla
 23 Nov  Fly Lukla to KTM
 24 Nov  Exped admin, change flight to UK.
 25 Nov  Flight – KTM to Heathrow via Doha
 26 Nov  Back in the UK.

Equipment

Climbing Hardware
We took a fairly standard alpine rack, not envisaging doing any aid climbing. This comprised of:

  1x   Set of DMM Wallnuts 1-10
  4x   BD Camalots
  10x Quickdraws
  8x   BD Ice screws 
  Qty Pegs
  2x   Abolokov threaders
  Qty Slings
  Qty abseil tat

This quantity of equipment was more than adequate for the climbing on Phari Lapcha. However, if you anticipate trying harder mixed lines a beefed up rack might well be a good idea.

In addition to the above we took 2x60m Beal Iceline’s which were ideal for alpine style climbing.

We both took Petzl Charlet tools: Quarks and Nomics. These were ideal for the conditions encountered, although Andy did miss having more traditional tools while plunging in loose snow. We both chose to take crampons with a vertical orientated front point, BD Siaborg’s and Petzl Charlet Vasaks. Both were excellent on the hard water ice pitches.

Clothing and Rucksacs etc
We used Haglofs and Mountain Equipment Clothing, and OMM Villain Rucksacs. These were an ideal size at 40-45litres, big enough for the approach but still a good size to climb with.

Tents
We took a thin single skin Gore Tex tent loaned to us by Dave Hollinger. We didn’t use this in the end, opting for an open bivvy instead.

Stoves and Gas
We purchased gas in Namche Bazar due to the problems associated with transporting small quantities in by air. Gas is readily available although some is more than likely to be butane in refilled cans. It’s definitely worth paying a good price for it.

There are a few brands available, we chose Himalyan Fuel in yellow cans, this being a butane/propane mix which works much better at altitude. Many other brands are moving over to a 50/50 butane/propane mix, or worse isobutane which is terrible from our experience.

Food and Stores
We bought some food from Britain, working on six days of “route” food. This was essentially dehydrated meals for use on the route, power gels and sundry items. With hindsight, more of this sort of food would have been an advantage. Chocolate bars, biscuits and snacks were widely available in teahouses at a premium price. The alternative is to try and buy these items in bulk, they are widely available in Kathmandu.