For a more detailed account of the Expedition please download the Expedition report by clicking HERE.
Day by day
A basic day to day summary of the expedition:
1 Nov Flight – Depart London Heathrow.
2 Nov Arrive Kathmandu via Doha.
3 Nov Kathmandu, supplies and permits etc
4 Nov Delayed in KTM, no flights to Lukla.
5 Nov Delayed in KTM, no flights to Lukla
6 Nov Fly to Lukla, walk to Phakding.
7 Nov Phakding to Namche Bazar
8 Nov Namche Bazar local acclimatisation day
9 Nov Namche Bazar to Dole
10 Nov Dole to Gokyo
11 Nov Acclimatisation and check out lines on the north face of Phari Lapcha.
12 Nov Ascent of Gokyo Ri (5483m) and bivvy for acclimatisation
13 Nov Descend Gokyo Ri (5483m), pack kit for Phari Lapcha
14 Nov Attempt line of LHS of the north face of Phari Lapcha – retreat to Gokyo.
(Tent noted at the base of the face from another unknown team).
15 Nov Rest day
16 Nov Recce/Rest Day
17 Nov Start “Snotty’s Gully” on Dawa Peak (Bivvy)
18 Nov “Snotty’s Gully” and descent to Machermo
19 Nov Rest day Machermo
20 Nov Machermo to Gokyo and return (pick up stashed bags)
21 Nov Machermo to Namche Bazar
22 Nov Namche Bazar to Lukla
23 Nov Fly Lukla to KTM
24 Nov Exped admin, change flight to UK.
25 Nov Flight – KTM to Heathrow via Doha
26 Nov Back in the UK.
Equipment
Climbing Hardware
We took a fairly standard alpine rack, not envisaging doing any aid climbing. This comprised of:
1x Set of DMM Wallnuts 1-10
4x BD Camalots
10x Quickdraws
8x BD Ice screws
Qty Pegs
2x Abolokov threaders
Qty Slings
Qty abseil tat
This quantity of equipment was more than adequate for the climbing on Phari Lapcha. However, if you anticipate trying harder mixed lines a beefed up rack might well be a good idea.
In addition to the above we took 2x60m Beal Iceline’s which were ideal for alpine style climbing.
We both took Petzl Charlet tools: Quarks and Nomics. These were ideal for the conditions encountered, although Andy did miss having more traditional tools while plunging in loose snow. We both chose to take crampons with a vertical orientated front point, BD Siaborg’s and Petzl Charlet Vasaks. Both were excellent on the hard water ice pitches.
Clothing and Rucksacs etc
We used Haglofs and Mountain Equipment Clothing, and OMM Villain Rucksacs. These were an ideal size at 40-45litres, big enough for the approach but still a good size to climb with.
Tents
We took a thin single skin Gore Tex tent loaned to us by Dave Hollinger. We didn’t use this in the end, opting for an open bivvy instead.
Stoves and Gas
We purchased gas in Namche Bazar due to the problems associated with transporting small quantities in by air. Gas is readily available although some is more than likely to be butane in refilled cans. It’s definitely worth paying a good price for it.
There are a few brands available, we chose Himalyan Fuel in yellow cans, this being a butane/propane mix which works much better at altitude. Many other brands are moving over to a 50/50 butane/propane mix, or worse isobutane which is terrible from our experience.
Food and Stores
We bought some food from Britain, working on six days of “route” food. This was essentially dehydrated meals for use on the route, power gels and sundry items. With hindsight, more of this sort of food would have been an advantage. Chocolate bars, biscuits and snacks were widely available in teahouses at a premium price. The alternative is to try and buy these items in bulk, they are widely available in Kathmandu.